Luxury and Design - isn't that always linked? Do we not automatically think of design when we talk about luxury? And do clients of luxury brands have higher expectations in terms of design than customers of other brands?
In my opinion design is something we are surrounded by all the time. No matter if it is the furniture in our flats, the road signs on our way to work, the bottle of water we buy in our lunch break, the arrangement of flowers in our favorite park or the look of our new designer bag - every single one of them is, in a way, designed.
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Therefore if we talk about design and luxury I think we have to understand that the design of luxury products is important but in a way a precondition to become successful in the market. The only difference to other goods is that, within luxury brands, it is all about the names of the designers. If we think about Ikea, H&M or Zara for example, there must be great designers but instead of highlighting their names it is all about the product and the name of the shop. Within luxury it is not only about the product but also about the names and the famousness of the designers. A luxury brand stands and falls with the name of the main designer, not only because he might be a great designer but also because he already has a standing in the industry.
But although design is a necessity for mass market products as well as for luxury products there are some luxury brands that do give their highest priority to design, which means they do not only create beautiful, useful and classic products but also products, that attract attention through their unusual and abstract design.
If, for example, you look at this Alexander McQueen shoe, you will see it is a stiletto but it does not have a heel. Therefore it surprises and its innovative approach attracts attention no matter if it is a shoe you can wear easily or not. So instead of giving the priority to the function of the shoe Alexander McQueen was obviously mostly focused on its design.
Source: www.yournextshoes.com
So to sum it up in my opinion design is important for normal goods&brands as well as for luxury brands. The only difference basically is that luxury brands highlight the names of their designers more than high street brands do.
Another interesting aspect of luxury brands is the behaviour of luxury brand customers. Depending on which theory you are consulting you can devide the luxury brand consumer into different groups of typical buyers. In class for example we were talking about:
- millenium money (people who made their money through deals with the world wide web during the turn of the millenium)
- old money (people who inherited their wealth)
- new money (entrepreneurs, who know the value of money)
- middle class (upper middle class)
Source: (Chevalier & Mazzalovo, 2008)
Wiley
& Sons Ltd
If you keep thinking in boxes like that it becomes clear that different groups of people have different preferences and tastes. Therefore although there are many, many so-called "luxury brands", luxury is defined differently by different groups. Therefore to keep your clients as a brand you have to keep in mind your core DNA and therefore also a certain way of design. As an example, clients of Chanel, which is well-known for its classical and plain design, would presumably not buy Chanel anymore if Karl Lagerfeld decided to create extravagant and flashy dresses like for example Alexander McQueen or Versace. Therefore in my opinion the design of a luxury brand should stick to the brands core values and reflect the target customers style to guarantee happy and loyal customers.
To sum it all up, I have found a study, conducted by a famous German consultancy, called Roland Berger, that characterises four different types of luxury consumers and names their feelings towards brands, their expactations from brands, as well as the names of their favorite brands (Berger, 2009).
1. The First-time-user: material possessions are an instrument of social acceptance, a status symbol. Many of those clients buy luxury products to immitate their favorite celebrities. In their opinion luxury brands have to be very popular and present in the media. They love logos and their favorite brands are Tag Heuer and Versace. A typical statement would be "In my opinion the way you present yourself is extremely important." (Berger, 2009)
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| Source: killerforfashion.blogspot.com |
2. The Developer: he shows his success through the use of eye-catching luxury brands. He can either be a climber or well-established. He shows his social status through flashy, exclusive luxury brands. The design as well as the style of the products is very important. The brand has to be very popular. Favorite brands are Tiffany&Co., Louis Vuitton, Maserati and Rolex. A typical statement would be "I feel comfortable in designer shops and I am very proud I can afford this luxury. I have worked hard for my success." (Berger, 2009)
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| Source: killerforfashion.blogspot.com |
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3. Supporter of Exclusivity: Quality and craftsmanship are essential. He lives from old money and therefore likes subliminal luxury. Exclusivity is shown through good quality. He prefers a timeless and classical style and wants exclusive service and personal designation. Favorite brands are Armani, Chanel, Hermes and Prada. A typical statement would be "I used to by my wife's jewellery at Tiffany's but nowadays everyone buys Tiffany&Co.. Therefore I now buy individual handmade pieces for her. I rather have something handmade than a product from a famous brand." (Berger, 2009)
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4. True Connoisseur: Experiences and adventures are more important than material possessions. Old money. He does not want to show his social status or prestige. Understatement is important. A luxury brand has to be authentic and good quality and craftsmanship are essential. He only buys products from luxury brands with discreet advertising. His favorite brands are Bottega Veneta, Audi, Brioni and Kiton. A typical statement would be: "In my opinion true luxury is spending time with my family. True craftsmanship is visable through small details." (Berger, 2009)
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References:
Berger, R. (2009).
Der deutsche Luxusmarkt bleibt auch in der Krise stabil. Munich: Marquard Media.
Chevalier, M. and Mazzalovo, G. (2008).
Luxury Brand Management, A world of priviledge. Singapore: John Wiley&Sons.
